EquiAcc Equestrian - Tips for horseriders
Tack Care |
Fitting Rugs |
Fitting Saddles |
Advice, Society of Master Saddlers |
Buying a Horse/Pony |
Riding Equipment |
Tack Safety
Article supplied by The Tack Seller Limited
Storage
All leather accessories should be stored in a dry,
secure place at a moderate temperature.
Too warm an atmosphere will cause the leather to absorb
moisture and will eventually rot the stitching.
If saddlery is being stored for any length of time
(due to the horse being of work), it should be dismantled,
thoroughly cleaned, soaped then treated with neatsfoot oil.
It should be wrapped in cotton material (such as an old bed sheet)
and stored in a dry place. Never store in plastic as this will cause the leather to sweat..
Daily cleaning and care.
Ideally your saddle and bridle (and other leather accessories such as lungeing cavesson) should be cleaned every time they are used. They do not need to be taken apart every time but you could remove straps from their runners and keepers.
Wash the bit and the stirrups then wipe the leather over with a damp cloth or sponge to remove dirt and grease. Do not over-wet the leather, and use warm water to dampen the cloth or sponge.
Brush webbing girths and numnahs with a stiff brush to remove dried on sweat.
Dip a bar of saddle soap in water to dampen, the rub the bar with a dry sponge or cloth. This will prevent a lather forming (which is not desirable as it will dry on the leather, clogging up stitching and buckles etc). Rub the saddle soap thoroughly into both sides of the leather.
Replace all straps into their keepers and runners. Covering the saddle and bridle with an old sheet or saddle cover will help keep it clean in between uses.
Note - if you clean leather work when it has just been used it will be a lot easier to remove dirt and grease rather than when the dirt has dried on.
Weekly cleaning and care
Depending on usage, saddlery and accessories such as headcollars, numnahs and girths should be thoroughly cleaned.
Dismantle saddle and bridle and clean as described above. Check all stitching and buckles for wear.
Wash webbing headcollars and girths in warm soapy water, ensuring all soap is thoroughly rinsed away.
Cotton numnahs and saddlecloths can be washed by hand in warm soapy water or machine washed.
Monthly care
Polish stirrup irons and girth buckles and with a metal polish.
Apply neatsfoot oil sparingly in areas of wear to the leather such as saddle flaps. Allow oil to be absorbed by leather before using.
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For all your rug needs visit Oakwood Equestrians online Rug sales (CLICK HERE)
Rugs should be comfortable for the horse. It is important that they are a
good fit around the neck and do not rub the horse; it may be necessary to use a
bib to avoid chafing on the shoulder and breast. Similarly, the withers should
be protected from rubbing and many rugs have padding at the top of the neck for
this purpose.
A good supplier will allow you to try out a rug before you make your
decision to buy. However, bear in mind that the saddlery has to sell any rug
which you return and you should ensure that your horse is clean before trying
it on - it is best to cover the horse with a sheet or blanket before attempting
to fit the rug. You should know the size of rug required before visiting the
saddlery as guesses invariably turn out to be wrong, so necessitating a return
visit.
Rugs are measured from the centre of the breast to a line vertical to the
base of the tail (dock). Rugs are still manufactured to imperial measurements,
in three inch increments, e.g. 6'6",
6'9", 7'0". Go for the closest size, but remember that it is
important that rugs are not so long as to prevent the horse from lifting its
tail. Similarly, surcingles should be loosely fastened to ensure that the horse
remains comfortable.
Rugs are a lot more sophisticated then they used to be, but no rug will keep
a horse 100% dry and neither is it 100% tear-proof, particularly if you have
barbed wire or thorns in your paddock. It is important that natural fibre New
Zealand rugs are broken in properly - they don't become leak-proof until they
have been exposed to wet weather a few times, so please bear this in mind before
taking a leaking rug back to the shop. Also, some rugs made from man-made
materials can cause condensation on the horses back, which can be mistaken for a
leaking rug.
Don't put a new rug on your horse, turn him out, and leave him. He has to
become used to it and should be watched to ensure that he is comfortable with
it, even if he has been wearing rugs all his life. If a horse isn't happy in a
rug he can get it off - he does this by snagging it on a fence post or stable
fitting, tearing the straps from the rug material and causing the rug to flap
about. The horse will chase around attempting to get away from the flapping
monster on its back until it is dislodged, or he trips himself up when he
becomes entangled in the loose straps or the enveloping rug. Invariably the
shreds will end up back at the saddlery with the comment that it is "not up
to the job and can I have my money back please". It's worth bearing in
mind also, that in shared paddocks some horses don't like other horses wearing
rugs and will assist in their removal.
Because rugs are not totally waterproof it is advisable to have at least two
outdoor rugs - well, as we sell the things we would say that wouldn't we?
Having a spare allows you to dry out a damp rug, and also to effect repairs.
Many of our customers buy a top-of-the-range New Zealand and also a cheaper rug
which they can use while the main one is being serviced. Some buy two cheaper
rugs and alternate them regularly. Whatever you do, the key factor is to ensure
that your horse is warm, dry and comfortable.
LEG STRAPS - a source of continual debate:
Wisdom handed down through
the ages stipulates that the leg straps of a rug should be looped to prevent
chafing. In fact, looped straps can interfere with the self-righting properties
of some rugs and you should always ask your rug supplier whether the straps of
the rug you are buying should be looped or not. As a general rule the straps of
self-righting rugs should not be looped while the straps of surcingled rugs
should be looped; HOWEVER, different manufacturers have different
recommendations and you should always follow the specific instructions for the
make of rug that you have. Unfortunately, most rugs don't have written
instructions, so ask your saddler; and if they don't know get them to ask the
manufacturer.
Finally, buying rugs can be a problematical and expensive business, so do
you really need to do it? Many native and other hardy breeds grow their own
hairy rugs and it is not always necessary to supplement nature. It all depends
on the circumstances, of course, and some people just like to pamper their
horses. If you're not a big softy, check out what the recommendations are for
your breed and maybe save yourself a bit of money.
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The seat of the problem
If your horse isn't responding to the bit, check his saddle.
If your horse is playing up and being unruly, check his saddle.
If your horse is doing anything out of character, check his saddle.
Check your saddle every time you put it on. A quick examination to ensure
that there are no lumps or bumps in the panel, that there are sufficient
clearances and that it is not pinching, will help to avoid the reluctance to go
forward or the sudden buck, and help prevent the slow development of back
problems in your horse. Many bitting problems can be cured by the fitting of a
different saddle - if a horse is in pain when he is being ridden then he will
not give of his best.
There is one simple rule for fitting saddles - both the horse and the rider
must be comfortable. It should be simple to ensure that the rider is
comfortable but not so easy to ensure that the horse is. When I fit saddles I
go through a standard routine, which if followed will guarantee that no harm
will come to the horse from bad fitting. It isn't difficult, but it can take
some time, but remember that patience will be rewarded with a happy and more
biddable horse. Before describing the process I should point out that years of
experience with fitting saddles on club, school and family horses has
demonstrated that there are very few occasions when a narrow saddle is suitable.
Medium or wide saddles are by far the norm and, if you think a narrow saddle is
a good fit, make really certain that the saddle is not pinching the withers.
THERE IS NO SADDLE THAT WILL FIT EVERY HORSE!!!
Saddle fitting requires experience in order to ensure that no damage is caused to
the horse. There are many very good fitters in the United Kingdom but if you don't know the competence of the person who
is doing your fitting then it is wise to ensure that they have the Society of Master Saddlers
saddle fitting qualification. This is awarded only to persons who are experienced saddle
fitters who have undergone advanced training from saddlers, professional horsepersons, and veterinary surgeons, and
who have passed searching theoretical and practical examinations. Graduates are allowed to describe
themselves as SMS Qualified Saddle Fitter. A list of qualified fitters is available from the Society of Master Saddlers
The fitting process
| 1. | Wherever
possible, always fit saddles in a schooling area with no other horses around. |
| 2. | Check
that the saddle is sound and that the panels are
smooth and even. |
| 3. | Put on the horse's bridle and get somebody to lead
him, unsaddled, away and towards you, in both walk and trot. Observe his gait and make a mental note of
any peculiarities. If possible, it is a good idea to shoot a 30 second video of
this phase. Obviously, if the horse is lame or showing any discomfort during this stage
then stop immediately and get professional veterinary assistance.
|
| 4. | Put the saddle on the horse's back, placing it just
above the withers and then sliding it back into position. Don't use a numnah or saddle pad. |
| 5. | Ensure that, | a. the flaps do not interfere with the movement of the horse's
shoulder; |
| | b. the saddle is located above the horse's ribs and the back of
the panel does not bear upon his loins (behind his last rib); |
|
| | c. the arch of the tree does not pinch the
withers and does not rest upon the top of the withers; |
| | d. the panels bear
evenly on the horse's back for the length of the saddle. |
| 6. | Look down
between the saddle and the horse's back and ensure that the spine is not being
pinched. You should see daylight along the length of the saddle. |
| 7. | Attach the girth
(I prefer to use the first and third straps to minimise rocking, although this might be changed to reduce saddle movement back or forth)
and get the rider to mount. You should be able to get
your fingers easily between the arch of the saddle and the horse's withers when
the horse is moving and when the rider stands in the stirrups. Also check that the rear of
the saddle is well clear of the horse's spine with the rider seated.
Compare the horse's gait to its unsaddled gait (this
is where the video recording comes in handy); if there is a major difference then
the saddle is uncomfortable for the horse and must not be used. Get another
saddle and return to step 2. |
| 8. | Now observe the mounted horse in walk, trot and canter and ensure that the saddle does not
move excessively, and most importantly, that the horse shows no sign of
distress. The saddle should be level and the rider should be comfortable. The
unsaddled and ridden gaits should be essentially identical. |
Difficulties often arise with saddles moving from side to side, or slipping;
usually because of podgy horses or flat-backed horses (tabletops). Often
adjustment of the flocking can alleviate these difficulties but it is best to
get the advice of a saddler or someone who has experience in fitting saddles.
In any case, saddles should be checked frequently in order to ensure that they
do not need restuffing. A new saddle will probably need its flocking adjusted
within 3 months of fitting. I always make a record of a horse's shape when I
fit a saddle so that I can compare how it has changed if it becomes necessary to
refit it. Do this with the aid of a draughtman's curve which is a lead-filled
length of plastic tubing about 18" long, and which can be bought from any
office supplies shop. Mould the plastic over the withers, just behind the shoulders where the arch
of the saddle would normally be (on a non-cutback saddle) and then trace the
shape onto a piece of A4 paper. Repeat this for the horse's back about 8 inches
back from the previous measurement and trace it onto the same piece of paper.
I then add the horse's name, height, colour, date and any other information that
might be useful as a record. Ideally, this procedure should be repeated when
it becomes necessary to reflock, and the saddler should use this as a template.
Remember, also that horses change shape cyclically through the year, and also as
they get older, so the same saddle may not last the lifetime of the horse.
Checking for soundness of saddles
The
vast majority of riders know that to ride on a saddle which has a broken tree is
the height of irresponsibility. Good riders also know to check that the tree is
not twisted. Both faults can cause severe back damage to the horse as well as
making him unresponsive. By getting into the habit of regularly checking the
saddle for soundness riders are being kind to their horse.
Broken and
twisted trees can occur through long term wear and tear, or from sudden impacts.
Twisting is exacerbated by the rider who mounts from the ground by pulling on the
cantle with the reinless hand rather than placing this hand on the waist of the
saddle. Sometimes circumstances
dictate that mounting from the ground is unavoidable, but in general it's better
to use a leg-up or a mounting block. If you do mount from the ground then it's a good idea to alternate both
sides of the horse.
Check for a
twisted tree by placing the saddle on a fence. Ensure that the two sides of the panel are level at the front
and then check that the panel bearers are level at the back. If one looks higher than the other then
have a saddler look at it. Ensure that you line up the panel at the front rather than the skirt nails, as these
are often not level.
Check for a broken tree by resting the pommel (arch) against your stomach
and pulling back on the cantle with both hands. If there is movement across the
seat and no tendency to spring back then the tree may be damaged. Get advice
from your saddler before using the saddle.
Secondly, hold the cantle against your stomach, and grasp both sides of the
arch. Try to push your hands together against the resistance of the arch, and
then try to pull them apart. If this causes movement of the arch or you hear
metallic sounds then again get advice from a saddler before using the saddle.
Don't be afraid to use all your strength with these tests; if the saddle is
sound then you won't harm it, but if it is damaged or weakened then you will need to
replace it anyway........ if it breaks, it was bad.
Finally, check that the girth straps are sound. They should be firmly stitched to the
webbing and should not be cracked. Damaged or worn straps should be replaced immediately.
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4th February 2012
