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1.Your saddle, new or second-hand, should be
fitted by a MEMBER OF THE SOCIETY OF MASTER SADDLERS. Their first
consideration will always be the horse. This may mean that you need to
adjust any preconceived ideas you may have about your own preferences in
relation to make and design. |
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2. If you MUST use a numnah or gel pad the
saddle fitter must be informed at the time of the original enquiry - and
always before the saddle is fitted. Adding a numnah under a saddle which
fits well without it is akin to putting thick insoles into shoes that fit
perfectly without them. |
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3. Each horse should have its own saddle.
Just as a pair of shoes adapts to the wearer's foot, so the saddle adopts
the contours of the horse. Ill advised riders use one saddle on several
horses ('it cuts down on tack cleaning'…'I ride better in that particular
saddle'…) without pausing to consider possible
consequences. |
| 4. It may be possible to adjust your existing saddle to
fit your new horse - but the advice of a qualified saddle fitter should
always be sought. |
| 5. Your horse changes shape regularly. The frequency of
these changes will relate to his age, training, management and so on. Try
to develop an eye to recognise these changes. Viewed on a daily basis, the
changes may seem inconsequential but over a period of just a week or so
they can be surprisingly substantial. Have your saddle checked - and any
necessary adjustments made - regularly. |
| 6. 'Feed' your saddle carefully. Insufficiently treated
the leather will dry out. Fed too much, the dressing will not be absorbed
and the saddle will be unpleasantly sticky - possibly marking your
clothes, or worse, causing the saddle stitching to rot. The regularity
with which the saddle requires 'dressing' relates to usage, weather
conditions and so on. |
| 7. The young horse must be fitted especially carefully.
His - or her - back is 'virgin territory' and very precious. Great care
must be taken to avoid any damage that may cause problems later in life.
Young horses should never be lunged in any old saddle ('it doesn't matter
- no-one is going to ride in it'). The young back is particularly
vulnerable and a swinging/bouncing saddle that doesn't fit anyway - and
may even be damaged - can be the cause of veterinary problems that may be
irreversible. Recognise, too, that some young horses develop at a
substantial rate and the saddle that fitted well only a short time
previously may need adjustment. |
| 8. The standard general purpose saddle is a compromise
and can never fulfil the needs of individual disciplines as well as
saddles designed specifically. |
| 9. Unlevelness, even slight, in your horse's gait -
especially behind - can cause the saddle to move/gyrate thus possibly
exacerbating the existing problem. |
| 10. Mounting from a mounting block should not be
restricted to the less-than-athletic! It is infinitely better for the
horse's back and guards against the saddle tree becoming twisted - quite
easy to happen if the saddle is regularly used as a lever. |
| 11. When mounting the rider's weight should always be
lowered gently into the saddle - never 'thump' or 'bang' |
| 12. If you insist on mounting from the ground be aware
that the stirrup leathers should be changed from side to side regularly to
avoid the near-side leather becoming longer/stretched. |
| 13. Saddles should be carefully stored on a well-made
saddle horse or rack. Never position saddles where they can be knocked off
the rack. Appreciate that lifting a saddle onto a very high rack can
damage your own back - and often results in the saddle being stored
lop-sidedly. |
| 14. Great attention must always be played to the
condition of the saddle flocking. Irregular/uneven/lumpy flocking can
cause pressure points that may seriously damage the horse's back. Severe
irregularity in the flocking can cause the saddle to sit to one side.
Correct flocking provides a cushioning effect that helps to reduce trauma.
Over stuffed, the saddle will be hard, will not adapt to the horse's back
and may cause pressure sores or sensitivity. |
| 15. The saddle must always be level when viewed from the
side. Anything else compromises the horse's comfort and welfare. 'Up-hill'
the rider will sit too far back. 'Down-hill the rider will be encouraged
onto the fork. |
| 16. When viewed from the front and rear the saddle gullet
must always provide adequate clearance - both before and after the horse
is exercised. |
| 17. Most equine insurance can be extended to include
theft of tack. Some policies even include accidental damage. Important
considerations - but do read the small print 'exclusions' carefully before
signing up. |
18. It is important to ask the saddler to check any
saddle in use when a horse falls. 'Hidden' damage may be substantial -
broken/cracked trees can be difficult to detect.
Likewise, if the
saddle falls from the saddle rack or is dropped it should be checked over
by a qualified saddler.
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| 19. The size of the stirrup irons should be checked when
a different rider exercises the horse. Irons that are either too small or
too large can be the cause of serious accidents. |
| 20. Weak or defective stitching on any part of the saddle
should be repaired instantly. Saddles should be checked every time they
are used; equal attention should be paid to girths and
leathers. |
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29th July 2010
